Not only are they stunningly gorgeous, I think they are fairly easy to keep. They're hardy, good eaters, excellent burrowers & tube web creators. It's no wonder this one's a hobby favorite!
Origin: Old World. Native South Africa
Difficulty: Intermediate to Advanced (Due to speed and bite potency) although we find they are more "easy going" than most OW species which makes them a common first OW species for the intermediate keeper.
Adult Size: Males average 3.5-4.5" while Females average 5-6"
Growth speed: Medium
Longevity: Males 4+ years, females 10-15 or more years
Temperament: Skittish and often defensive. If agitated they are typically more likely to flee but they can be defensive and bite if they feel threatened.
Bite potency: Strong
Urticating hairs: No
Ideal Temperature: 70 to 75°
Interesting Fact: Although not known in the hobby as communal we have been keeping a large group together since November 2019.
You can read more about our H. pulchripes communal here:
Harpactira pulchripes (Golden Blue Leg Baboon) Communal Part 1
Enclosure: The enclosure should not be too tall as to give the spider an opportunity to fall and injure itself. For spiderlings under about 1-1 1/4" we recommend the Terrestrial Spiderling Enclosure Kit. For specimens over 1" to about 2" we recommend the Terrestrial Juvenile Enclosure Kit. Specimens over 2" and under about 4.5 or 5" can go into a 7x7x11" complete terrestrial enclosure. If you have a larger specimen or would like to be sure the final enclosure is definitely large enough we recommend the 8x8x14" Adult Complete Terrestrial for 2-2.5" and over specimens. Click HERE to find out how to you measure a tarantula.
Substrate: While most adults will adopt a hide, slings often prefer to burrow. Cocofiber, vermiculite, peat moss and/or potting soil (or a mix) are all excellent substrate choices. Please make sure the substrate you choose is organic and chemical/fertilizer free. Do not use sand, pebbles, rocks or wood chips or anything else that could potentially cut or injure the tarantula.
In many cases a larger specimen would rather adopt or retrofit an existing hide than create it's own from deep substrate. Cork tubes half buried in substrate are what we use for our adult females. The specimen will excavate one side of the cork tube to it's liking. I like to think this makes the tarantula feel “at home” while minimizing the time and effort for the spider to settle in.
Water: Larger spiders 2” and over can be provided with a shallow water dish in order to drink. The water bowl should be rinsed our every time it is refilled. Being a scrubland species they will not require as frequent misting as an arboreal species however, I recommend keeping one corner of the enclosure lightly misted, especially if there is no water bowl.
Feeding: Adults will eat every 6-14 days depending on the size of the spider and it's prey. Spiderlings should eat more often, every 5-10 days. Adults may be fed crickets, mealworms or roaches. Spiderlings under .75” can only eat food small enough for it to overpower. This includes pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies & freshly hatched "pinhead" rusty red roaches. It is not advised to feed your tarantula wild-caught food. It could contain parasites or pesticides that could be fatal to your pet. Keep your tarantulas enclosure clean. food waste left in the enclosure will invite mold, mildew, mites, flies and other pests. It is advised to remove uneaten prey items after 3-12 hours. If using a feeder who will not “bother” a tarantula such as dubia roaches it is alright to leave them in the enclosure as long as they are not causing stress to the specimen. A more detailed feeding, misting & troubleshooting guide can be found HERE
Where can I get a Golden Blue Leg Baboon? To see if Jamies has any H. pulchripes for sale check out the current stock-list HERE